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Chef-owner Sean Fowler of Mandolin talks business pivots and the ‘noble calling’ of hospitality

The Raleigh, N.C., launches Mandolin Farmhouse Foods delivery service to better serve customers amid COVID-19 restrictions

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

May 20, 2020

3 Min Read
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As part of our Stories from the Front Lines series, Restaurant Hospitality reached out to restaurateurs to share their experiences during the coronavirus crisis. Here, Sean Fowler, chef and owner of Mandolin in Raleigh, N.C., shares his story.

The coronavirus pandemic is a generation-defining event that has suddenly and violently shifted the world as we know it. I wouldn’t even begin to try to predict what will happen tomorrow, but I know that when this pandemic has run its course, our world will be irrevocably changed, and we will all be different people as a result.

Dealing with these dramatic changes has been an exercise in resilience, humility and compassion. As a father, a business owner and a chef, I have been forced to make countless decisions based off of limited information with constantly changing variables. I have tried to weigh, carefully, the effects of these decisions on the health, safety, financial well-being and overall welfare of my staff, my guests, my family and my community. We have all been forced to choose the least egregious of the bad options we have been dealt.

As a restaurant, we have pivoted, adapting to our new reality by launching a prepared food and provisions delivery service called Mandolin Farmhouse Foods. We are offering scratch-made, family style, heat-and-serve meals. We are also delivering eggs and produce from our farm along with other local artisanal products like bagels, doughnuts and chocolate. In doing so, we have found an outlet for ingredients from our farm and are helping other local businesses. Like so many small business owners, we launched a brand new business overnight. We attempted to fill a hole in this new marketplace, while keeping guests safe, my staff employed, and trying to meet the needs of our community.

sean fowler.jpgAfter 20-plus years in the hospitality industry, I still believe that serving people is a noble calling, as central in times of crisis as it is in peacetime.  We have made every effort to operate Mandolin Farmhouse Meals in a safe and responsible way that provides an essential service to the people in our community. In the process, I have managed to keep over half of my staff on payroll, with most of my back-of-the house-working over 30 hours a week in a socially distanced kitchen. I anticipate bringing everyone back on board when we are permitted to re-open.  

On a lighter note, we have also seized upon this new quarantine-fueled appetite for digital content and virtual experiences. We began doing monthly farm dinners at Mandolin Farm over the past couple of years. Since we cannot bring people to the farm right now, we are bringing the farm to the people with virtual farm tours every Monday and Friday morning on Instagram Live. We are trying to get people out of their homes for a half an hour and give them some tips for their home gardens in the process.

This is part of our Stories from the Front Lines series.

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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